I might attempt the technique outlined in this post:
http://theamcforum.com/forum/trunnion-removal-for-v8-cars-only_topic72382_page1.html
The only thing, since my car was originally a 6 cylinder car, it has the longer springs while the above procedure only works for the v8 cars with shorter springs. My plan to get around this is:
1) with the car on the ground, measure the distance between the holes on the upper and lower spring seat, make a set of 4 hooks that are just slightly shorter than that distance.
2) get a 6" inner diameter steel pipe, cut to a length a few inches shorter than the length of the spring (while compressed by the cars weight), and then cut the pipe in half length-wise.
3) Put the two halves of the pipe around the spring, wrap a ratchet strap around the pipe and tighten.
4) Push down on the fender to compress the spring enough to install the hooks.
5) raise the car and place on jack stands.
6) put the motorcycle jack under the control arm.
7) take off the shock and strut rod, loosen the control arm bolts.
8) slowly lower the control arm until the trunnion housing pivots towards you and the spring drops out
9) place the spring under the frame of the car and slowly lower the car so the spring compresses enough to remove the hooks. (if you have a shop press, that may be a safer option)
10) raise the car up off of the spring. At this point there is no more energy in the spring , remove the ratchet strap and the pipe. Install should be the same process reversed.
**I have not yet attempted these steps, just outlining my plan. If you choose to try this yourself, please have a friend ready to drive you to the hospital in case something goes wrong!
The tool Garryjave makes won't work on a 63-66 Classic. Not enough clearance between upper spring seat and spring.
I make hooks from 1/2" wide x 1/8" strap. Jack the car up, take a wheel off, and measure between the holes in the seats where the hooks would rest (top of hole in lower, bottom of hole in upper). Make two hooks that length. Cut the straps about 1.5" longer than that measurement then bend each end. A vice and hammer come in handy, but you should be able to do itwithout a vice. Bend one end, hook in bottom, then mark where it needs to hook at the top. After the top is bent test fit in the top. You will likely need to cut the hook really short. As long as it hooks in it will work -- doesn't need a lot with the tension that will be on it. The hooks need to be bent tight. I bend in a vice then use a hammer to make the bend tight.
You won't be able to get the spring out with the hooks made as above, but there is a reason! Put a floor jack under the lower suspension arm and jack up just enough to get the hooks on. Now disconnect the shock. That will allow the suspension to drop another inch when the jack is let down, and the spring can be removed.
Once the hooks are on SLOWLY let the jack down. If the spring appears to tilt DO NOT let the jack down any further! Jack it back up and re-position the hooks. I've not had this problem with big cars as the upper trunnion doesn't have a rubber bushing that wears and allows tilting like the 64-69 small cars, but watch it just the same. Once the suspension is down carefully lift the spring out. It has a lot of tension on it, but it is safe to move. I've dropped one by accident right after leaving the spring seat and it didn't move, but it sure made me catch my breath! I don't recommend dropping it or jostling it around... just in case. I set it under the car in the "loaded" state so it doesn't get kicked over (did that once too... whew!). If you need to remove the hooks to load a new spring put it under the flat area of the front rail just as the rail goes under the car and let the car down on the spring. You may need to push down on the front to get the hooks loose. Do the reverse to load a new spring.
Sounds dangerous, and it can be if the spring seats aren't in good condition or the hooks happen to come loose. I've done this many times on big cars and have to say it's safer than it sounds. Most here are used to doing this on the 64-69 small cars with the rubber bushings. When those wear the spring seat tilts and the spring is more likely to want to pop out. Pre 64 cars and 65-69 big cars have a different upper trunnion and don't have that issue. If it makes you feel better you can tie a strap or use large zip ties (find them in the duct section of Lowe's/Home Depot) to hold the hooks on the spring -- around both hooks and across spring (or zip tie the center of the hook TO the spring). I've found that not to be necessary.
As always, treat a compressed spring with the utmost care and respect -- it can hurt you if it comes loose! As long as the spring seats aren't badly rusted you should be fine though.
farna wrote:As always, treat a compressed spring with the utmost care and respect -- it can hurt you if it comes loose! As long as the spring seats aren't badly rusted you should be fine though.
Amen, very well said.
Respect, give them great respect. Treat them with care. Sort of like a loaded gun. Safe unless dropped or abused.
If you fear them you are more likely to make a mistake. Attention to detail. Don't hurry.
Two different sizes/numbers I inherited from my former boss. We did a whole lot of Ramblers with these things. Neither of us ever lost our heads over it. Pun, well, sort of intended but not necessarily. Once removed, we set the spring CAREFULLY in a corner of the shop away from where it might get kicked or bumped or something dropped on it, etc.
The factory "hooks" compress the heck out of the spring! I used a borrowed set once and that was enough for me. The way I make the hooks for the 63-66 big cars (I use a GarryJav tool for the small cars) you have to disconnect the shock and pull thesuspension down some to get the spring out, but it's compressed as little as possible. The less pressure the better!
